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Cooperatives are not an unusual phenomenon in Europe. Almost every growing region on the continent has at least one place where growers with no ability or inclination to make their own wine can send their grapes and get a decent return on their hard work in the vineyard. Most co-ops, though, aren’t really known for the quality of their work. One, in particular, is, and that’s the famous Produttori del Barbaresco. 

Growing out of the original Cantina Sociale founded by nine local growers near the town of Barbaresco in 1894, the modern Produttori was created at the behest of Barbaresco’s local priest and crushed its first grapes in 1958. The concept from the very beginning was simple: do only one thing, and do it very, very well. Located just up from the town’s (now deconsecrated) church, the facility handles a single grape: Nebbiolo. And, from that grape (grown now by 51 individual member-farmers) the facility produces only two wines and, when the harvest is particularly good, a third level of Riserva wines sourced from the nine original vineyards. If you visit the town of Barbaresco in the fall, you’ll see a conga line of tractors pulling all manner of trailers stacked with fragrant Nebbiolo lined up at the cellar door where, under the watchful eye of recently retired longtime director Aldo Vacca and new director Luca Cravanzola, each batch of grapes is graded, kept separate and ticketed for a fermentation zone in the cantina where, after further evaluation a year or so after it has become wine, will wind up as either the cantina’s extra-special Barbaresco or the winery’s equally distinctive, top-quality Langhe Nebbiolo. 

Make no mistake about it, Produttori’s Barbaresco is the flagship wine and remains as it has for nearly 70 years, the benchmark against which almost every other wine in the appellation is measured. While its production methods have changed very little over that period (long macerations, large cask aging, etc.), grape quality, thanks to the cantina’s incentives to the growers to work smarter and better, has only increased. 

The recently released 2022 Produttori Barbaresco shows this seminal property at the very top of its game. Coming from one of the warmest vintages ever (we’ve heard it referred to as ‘The African harvest’), we tasted this bottling with Luca at the cantina back in October and found it ultra-rich, super savory and decidedly easy to drink with snappy, vivid fruit, an aromatic profile rich in black cherry, balsam and cinnamon notes and a frame that will only gain weight and gravitas as it ages. Packed with juicy, nuanced fruit, its spicy, plummy and earth-driven aromatics are also on lovely display. It’s medium-weight now, but there is plenty enough cherry confit-like gras to cover its tannic bones. 

While this might drink sooner than the most noble harvests, thanks to its freshness and verve, it’s going to surprise you. Love this wine! 

Kerin O'Keefe, 94 points: The straight 2022 Barbaresco from Produttori del Barbaresco is fragrant and refined, with aromas of blue flower, red berry, citrus and a balsamic whiff of eucalyptus. Surprisingly fresh and juicy for the hot, extremely dry vintage, it boasts flavors of tart red cherry, orange zest and star anise alongside taut, refined tannins that leave some grip on the finish. Drink through 2030. Abv: 14.5%.

James Suckling, 94 points: Bright and overtly fruity, this is full of intoxicating violets, cinnamon, blood oranges and black cherries, expressing mint and balsamic depth. Full-bodied with a soft, smooth attack, dusty yet velvety tannins and brilliant acidity. The chocolaty finish shows licorice and a mouth-coating texture. Delicious and balanced. Drink or hold.

Vinous, 93 points: The 2022 Barbaresco is a pretty rich, heady wine. Dark cherry/plum fruit, cloves, licorice and mocha build as the 2022 shows off its considerable depth. This is one of the few 2022s that is quite resonant texturally. The aromatics could be more lifted and the tannins could use a bit more polish, but those qualities were next to impossible to come by in 2022. The inclusion of some juice from Riserva lots is a great help. All things considered, this is a stellar showing. Drink: 2027-2034.