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82% Berri and 18% Rocche dell'Annunziata

I first visited Trediberri now eight years ago at the behest of our good friend Massimo Martinelli who had worked with this micro-cellar’s co-owner, Nicola Oberto’s father Federico, for over five decades in the cellars of nearby Renato Ratti. Massimo was working with Nicola to make his own Bricco Mollea wines at Trediberri, and told me that he thought the then-infant winery was poised soon to join the top echelon of La Morra producers and worth getting to know. And a subsequent few hours with Nicola, walking his parcels of Berri and Rocche dell’Annunziata, and tasting through a few barrels and bottles made an instant convert out of me! The stuff coming out of this tiny cellar was top, top notch! Unfortunately, at the time, the wines weren’t available in the States and I had to content myself with drinking the odd bottle when I could find one in Italy- until several years ago, finally, Oberto when found an importer he could work with and now we are fortunate enough to obtain an annual allocation of Trediberri, albeit still in small quantities. And, of course, the label has now gone supernova amongst those with insider knowledge of the Barolo area. Massimo, a veteran of near 65 harvests in Barolo, is rarely wrong about this kind of stuff!

A bit of background first. ‘Trediberri’ means ‘The three from Berri,’ a reference to the three founders; ex-sommelier Nicola, papa Federico and another longtime colleague. The star of the show is the Berri cru- the Annunziata vineyard sitting on the back side of La Morra hill in which the trio now own about 12.5 acres. The small cantina also happens to front on the iconic Rocche dell’Annunziata MGA of which some seven well-placed acres are also part of the estate. In the scorching 2022 vintage, Nicola was forced to make a draconian selection, green harvesting several times to get a crop he thought would ripen in the heat and then going over every Nebbiolo cluster than came into the cellar. The extra work was worth it as both his sites, Berri and Rocche, while tiny in quantity, were harvested perfectly ripe and balanced. Nicola went even further and made the tough decision not to produce either of his single bottlings, instead, directing the fruit normally set aside for his best bottles into one single bottling of what turned out to be super Barolo. This is one of the nicest 2022s we’ve tried to date. It’s a lovely complete wine that, despite its copious fruit, still manages to taste very ‘La Morra.’ It’s warm and cool at the same time with heady hoisin, camphor-y plum and cherry aromatics and hints of exotic patchouli and cinnamon that lead to a luscious, soundly tannic finish that has already begun to round into form. While most 2022s are, to one degree or another, quite accessible, there is a bit of gravitas to the Trediberri that leads me to think, that while it will be an early drinker, it might be better to let this fill out a bit more in the cellar. This is an impressive achievement for the vintage. No, for any vintage!