Monleale is in the heart of the Colli Tortonesi region, Piemonte’s far northeastern quadrant and home to the unique Timorasso grape. Just about a decade ago now, it was the then-Vietti owners Luca and Elena Penna-Currado who led a parade of newcomers, soon joined several other high profile producers, in planting a flag, developing vineyards and bottling their own versions of this very distinctive white wine grape. Luca was particularly excited because, like his father before him, he loved aromatic, textured whites, and having the opportunity to create a partner to their famous Roero Arneis had long been one of the big challenges in his winemaking life. Now that Luca is gone, the Vietti team has doubled down on this ultra-interesting white. Timorasso is an ancient indigenous grape that almost certainly would have disappeared were it not for the efforts of a few dedicated vignerons in the area led by one Walter Massa who, in early 1990s recognized the potential in the grape’s natural richness, fine acidity and white Burgundy-like character. Derthona (the Piemontese word for Tortona) now has its own DOC and there has been a minor gold rush as Massa’s success has inspired a small coterie of fellow passionistas impressed not only with the character of his Timorassos but also how elegant and polished they become as they age. Where once there were two or three producers growing and producing Timorasso in the Colli Tortonesi, there are now over a dozen including the likes of Vietti, the Odderos and, now, the Penna-Currados’ own vineyard project. After several vintages of experimenting and collaborating with locals like Massa, the Vietti bottling of Derthona Timorasso that debuted six or seven years ago is now well established. Aged in a combination of terracotta, neutral wooden and stainless steel casks, the wine is kept on its lees for the duration of its aging, periodically being stirred up to add additional layers of texture and flavor. If we say so ourselves The Vietti Timorasso is a pretty damned impressive wine! The best examples of Timorasso we know have the sort of green grape, dried honey, skinned nut essence, qualities we associate with the Chenin Blanc of Vouvray Sec, but its minerality, verve and brilliant fruit texture a more akin to, we’d say, a Cotes Chalonnaise Chardonnay like a Rully or Mercurey Blanc. Others say it reminds them of a Northern Rhone white. This is just that wine! Exciting, fun to drink and loaded with character, the just-released 2022 will be an excellent partner to a wide variety of dishes but, as proven under laboratory conditions, paired with the poached veal in tuna mayonnaise so famous in the region, it’ll be a particular winner! The response in Europe to this wine has been incredible and the United States is still, as a result, being allocated very little. I have a fair bit in stock right now but it won’t last! Very highly recommended and the perfect wine for the summer months ahead.