We first visited Beaux Frères back in the early 1990s when it was still a very small, struggling winery with a blossoming cult-like following for its scintillating, groundbreaking wines. Founder Michael Etzel, along with a not-insignificant investment from his brother-in-law wine critic Robert Parker (hence the name ‘Beaux Frères’- a French nickname for brother-in-law), had carved out his first vineyard on the property, once a pig farm, back in 1988, and sold his first crops of grapes to the likes of Dick Ponzi and Ken Wright. When the first B-F wines hit the market, though, it was to a thunderous ovation. They were deep, aromatic, intense and cerebral versions of Oregon Pinot Noir and we all couldn’t get enough of them! And, despite the fact that Michael Sr. stepped back in 2017 and sold a controlling share of the company to the folks who also own Champagne Henriot, Beaux Frères, now under the winemaking guidance of Michael’s son Mikey, continues to be at the top of their game—even more so, arguably, since the financial worries of the old days are behind them.
While Beaux Frères continues to fashion several estate wines that set a very high bar, it’s their blended Willamette Valley cuvée, sourced about 60% from the Ribbon Ridge estate and the rest from top growers around the area, that really shows what we love so much about the Beaux Frères style. In 2023, it’s a sinewy, highly nuanced Pinot Noir, long on its baking spice and dried orange peel aromatics and with a texture offering up a velvety touch of something like Volnay in its DNA. Not weighty but not at all light, it’s a seductive Oregon Pinot that evolves a lot as it opens in the glass. Bright, lifted and complex, this has the stuffing and great acidity to stand up to the richest lamb, duck or beef preparations and the balance to last for many years in the cellar.
Like discovering an old friend, it’s great to have Beaux Frères back on the shelf.
Decanter, 95 points:From three vineyard sources, two that Mikey planted in 2016 for family friends, Star Mooring and Doration and 60% comes from the Beaux Freres estate site, young vines, planted in 2021. A combination of opulence from the non-estate site marries with angularity and freshness, bottled in August 2024, just before harvest. Built to be approachable and speak to the house style, it's showing effusive rose petals with explosive red fruits, brilliant textures, cranberries and blood orange, bright mineral salinity and freshness with great pops of berry fruits.
James Suckling, 94 points:A concentrated but generous and approachable red. This offers charming red fruit on the nose and some deeper, denser black fruit on the palate, with black cherries, moderate tannins and a medium to full body. Drink now or hold.
Wine Spectator, 94 points:Supple and elegantly complex, with nuanced flavors of raspberry and cherry framed by hints of forest floor, dusky spices and cinnamon as this gathers richness toward polished tannins. Drink now through 2035.
Vinous, 93 points:The 2023 Pinot Noir Willamette Valley is aromatically stunning, with a cascade of sweet rose and lavender giving way to dusty dried strawberries and spice. Energetic yet also silken and supple, it reveals depths of bright red fruit and subtle mineral tones. A tinge of tart cranberry lingers, framed by gently grippy tannins as a nuance of licorice tapers off. As of 2023, the Willamette Valley Pinot Noir now makes use of the new Bridge Vineyard, making it about 61% estate fruit.
