$32.99, CASE PRICE $360/$30 PER BOTTLE

Even with the modest boomlet of Arneis-based wines now available in the United States, the blue-chips are still the best, and Bruno Giacosa’s is still at the top of the heap when it comes to this hard-to-master white wine grape native to the Roero district of Piemonte. The Giacosas have a track record with Arneis dating back as far as the 1980s, deciding to commit to it at the same time as others were busy ripping their vines out in frustration at the grape’s finickiness and lack of commercial appeal. Bruno always believed it could make a delicious and potentially popular dry wine and time has ultimately proven him correct.  Sourced from several higher altitude Giacosa parcels scattered from north to south in the Roero, if grown well, it’s not a wine that needs a lot of attention in the cellar to be good. At Giacosa, it’s fermented dry and aged only in stainless steel tanks, sitting on its lees for four months before being bottled with the barest bit of residual CO2 from the tank to keep it fresh and provide that bit of bubbly prickle that dissipates as the wine ages. It’s fresh, forward and just this side of rich, but packed with salty, mineral-infused fruit flavors and the kind of finish that begs another sip. In the pantheon of Arneis favorites at PRIMA, Giacosa’s holds a place of honor. While not as serious and requiring of age to show its best as, say, Cornarea, Giovanni Almondo’s Bricco Ciliegie or Deltetto’s San Michele, it definitely has the gravitas to stand up to all but the richest cuisines while staying light enough on its feet to still be a refreshing drink in its own right. In terms of palate weight, it falls somewhere on the weightier side of Matteo Correggia’s and Vietti’s, but not as firm or intense as these other three. In other words, like Mama Bear’s porridge, it’s just right! Perfect for enjoying all on its own or with all kinds of fare. If there’s a better partner for Vitello Tonnato, we’ve not tasted it but we love it with grilled chicken, salmon and fennel-citrus salad with a tin of TJ’s smoked trout.  You can also keep a Giacosa Arneis for five or six years…..

Wine Advocate: The Bruno Giacosa 2023 Roero Arneis will be a smaller release due to fruit that was damaged during a hailstorm the first week of July. Nonetheless, this wine remains salty, mineral-driven and bright with citrus and white peach. It is executed in stainless steel only. Perhaps this vintage is a little thinner in terms of mouthfeel, but it draws to a close with lingering acidity. Bruna Giacosa recommends giving it a little oxygen before you drink it. This white wine is always a great value buy. 92 points

James Suckling: A fresh and crunchy white with light lemons, mangoes and bitter limes. It's medium- to full-bodied with lots of fruit. The hot growing season comes through, but it remains fresh at the end. Drink now. 93 points