Rully, near the regional city of Chalon-sur-Saône and just three miles south of Chassagne-Montrachet as the Burgundian crow flies, has long been the source of some of the most over-achieving white values in all of Burgundy. The area, dominated for years by large negociants, traditionally saw these merchants purchase grapes from a score or more of small growers, then truck the wine or grapes to their establishments further north. Historically, there have been only a very few pure domaines who grow and make all their own wine in Rully (roo-ee) proper.

By far the oldest and most esteemed is the venerable Domaine de La Folie. This small family-owned operation farms 13 hectares of vines in Rully’s best climats, including the entirety of the Premier Crus Clos St. Jacques and Clos du Chaigne, by far the two most important vineyards in the appellation. Clos du Chaigne sits at the top of the slope. Planted in 1961, it’s a clos, or vineyard enclosed by a wall, and there’s only a pile of stones separating it from the marvelous view of Chassagne-Montrachet just a few kilometers away.

The Clos du Chaigne cuvée is about 40% aged in oak, a small portion of which is new, but you’d never know it to taste this ultra-fine, ultra-elegant white Burgundy. The wood fits in seamlessly, adding to the wine’s texture but not to its taste, leaving pure, ravishingly complex Chardonnay fruit and an armature of vibrant acidity to run the show. Richer on the palate but lighter on its feet, it’s a white Burgundy that can fool you into thinking it’s Chassagne, but a really pretty Chassagne! The rarest of the three La Folie cuvées we see, we’re pleased to have some in stock for the holidays.