Pedigree counts for a lot in Burgundy, and when your name is Jobard and you live and farm in Meursault, it counts even more! For a domaine whose wines have been called ‘a sensual tour of rock and vine,’ expectations have always been high, and Rémi is, after all, the son of Charles and the nephew of François, two of the most legendary names in Burgundy. But Rémi, since taking over the family domaine in 1996, has only further enhanced the pedigree of the family’s holdings. He started by converting his farming fully to certified organic; taking just over a decade to complete, this was no easy feat. And no one in Burgundy has a better reputation for making ‘straight’ Bourgogne Blanc than Rémi. All sourced in either Puligny or Meursault, or both, they are vivid expressions of terroir and very fine entrants into the Jobard pantheon.
Take the Bourgogne Côtes d’Or Vieilles Vignes, a cuvee of six different parcels right below the village of Meursault. With an average age over 45, these Chardonnay vines know well how to effortlessly produce great wine, and Rémi modestly claims his job is to simply stay out of their way. Raised in exactly the same manner as his famed Premier Cru Meursaults, the grapes are fermented on their own yeasts and aged half in small barrels (a portion of which are new) and the rest in older foudre, double-sized barrels.
Rémi says his 2023s are ‘superb! Very rich and concentrated with good power,’ but there is plenty of energy too, with a nice lemon verbena quality that adds lift and verve to what’s already an impressive Bourgogne Blanc with gravitas and class. A more vivid window into the soul of Meursault (without paying for Meursault) we can’t imagine. Clean, mineral-driven acidity drives a palate rich with yellow cherry, lemon curd, Asian pear and spice. Mouth-filling yet fresh, it’s a full-bodied white that will do excellent service alongside crabs and other kinds of shellfish, richer fish dishes or just a lovely, runny Époisses!
Sure, there are a lot of Bourgogne Blanc appellation wines costing a lot less out there, but there is also a lot of Meursault costing twice as much and not nearly as good!
