2023 Eve et Michel Rey Macon-Vergisson La Roche
Our value white Burgundy discovery of the year so far comes from the tiny domaine of husband and wife team Eve and Michel Rey. They farm several excellent sites in and around Pouilly-Fuisse which, of course, is the high rent district of the Macon region. But, located right on the other side of the famous Premier Cru La Roche vineyard in P-F, is the more modestly appelled Macon-Vergisson La Roche, the highest part of the Macon AOC. Is there a reason the P-F La Roche costs, in many cases, $60 or more, and this wine from just a few footsteps away less than $30? Yes. Is this difference significant enough to justify twice the price? Not in this case. No! The Reys’ parcel is at the highest point of the vineyard and sits on the same limestone vein as the P-F, so how bad can it be? This is entirely a hand operation and the wines they’ve been producing are pretty extraordinary. And spending the extra dough for one of their Pouilly-Fuisses wouldn’t be a bad thing. But, for now, give me two bottles of this instead. Fermented and aged in used oak, the 2023 has a nice roundness of fruit to go with its petrichor, sieved-through-limestone minerality so it comes off as a little more complete and less austere than some Macon Blanc we’ve been tasting lately- the perfect combination of the ripeness and texture one expects from Chardonnay with the Macon’s signature minerality and freshness. It’s the perfect season for this wine. It drinks really well on its own and will really blossom with grilled seafood, poultry and even oysters, if you’re so inclined. Don’t serve too cold. My wife Anne is the final arbiter of all things Burugndy in the Rittmaster household and she ratified the purchase of a whole case. Maybe you should consider doing the same! Drink now or keep another five or six years.
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