A STEAL OF A DEAL

James Suckling, 96 points: Aromas of red and dark fruit, crushed stones, dried herbs, flowers and salt-cured meat. The palate is tightly woven with a silken mouthfeel, fine tannins and a succulent, minerally finish. A wine of real nerve and approachability young, with ample aging potential. A good example of what a cool vintage in a cool appellation can produce.

The farming and winemaking at Faust has always been a little against the grain. Planted back in 1998 in ultra-cool (temperature-wise) Coombsville, it was a spot considered by most to be far too chilly (often 10 degrees cooler than, say, Yountville) to reliably ripen Cabernet Sauvignon, and many worried back in the day that, with the preferred style of Napa Cab headed towards the riper and more voluptuous in, Faust would be left—so to speak—in the cold. But, with organically farmed vines sitting on soils composed of the volcanic gravel and loam that Cabernet loves, it was worth the gamble.

And to say it’s paid off would be an understatement, as Faust is now considered one of the top names in Napa Valley Cab available as witnessed by its routinely high ratings. The 2021 vintage gained recognition as the #4 Wine of the Year by Wine Spectator, and James Suckling awarded 96 points to the current 2023 release, admiring its ‘real nerve and approachability young, with ample aging potential.’

The secret of the success of this cuvée is, I think, that the cool, slightly herbal side of the winery’s organically farmed Coombsville Cabernet fruit is filled out by some estate fruit from warmer spots further up the valley that adds richness, midpalate silkiness and complexity to its cooler, more Bordelaise core of mulberry, bramble and sage aromatics and brittler tannins.

However it’s constructed, the Faust Napa Valley Cab has not only become one of Napa’s highest-regarded wines, but also one of its best values. At around $50, it has all the bells and whistles (25% new French oak, 20 months in barrel, etc.) for around half of what similar wines retail for these days.