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Located in the tiny village of Chichée, the brothers Didier and Pascal Picq create, from southwest-facing vines that average over 40 years of age in Vosgros, a superb, mineral-driven Chablis that is classical in every way. The Picqs eschew oak, so the wines here—even the two Premier Crus—never see any wood. As a result, their wines epitomize the leaner, more saline, smoky petrichor side of Chablis with the sort of noble austerity that unwinds beautifully in the glass as it warms.

With a bouquet of fresh fruit, underpinned by citrus peel, anise, clove-y spice and plenty of limestone minerality, the 2023 Vosgros is a thrilling taste experience and the perfect wine at the perfect time. Not as immediately forward or generous as the Vauclaire, it’s a bit more serious and would be a wonderful foil to both simpler fare like a platter of raw oysters or richer, creamier dishes that would respond well to its gorgeous native acidity.

Vinous, 94 points: The 2023 Chablis Vosgros 1er Cru shows a small reduction when taken directly from vat. It eventually offers shucked oyster shell on the nose, quite strict and focused. The palate is very smooth, a little creamier in texture compared to the Vaucoupin. Touches of lemongrass and Vervane flowers lend intrigue on the finish. … Picq is a Chablis producer to go to if you want your Chablis steely and uncompromising; none of his small number of cuvées see any oak, just stainless steel in his winery in the village of Chichée.

Burghound, 93 points: An expressive and airy nose reflects an abundance of Chablis typicity that include just-sliced lemon, iodine, shellfish and quinine. The rich and generously proportioned medium-bodied flavors possess fine midpalate density and a lovely texture while delivering excellent persistence on the balanced and refreshingly dry finish. The Vaucoupin is good but the Vosgros offers another dimension.