In a region where, even now, a majority of the wines are produced at local cooperatives and machine picking, large yields and industrial-grade winemaking is the norm, producers like Jean Manciat are the exceptions that prove just how extraordinary the wines of the Mâcon can be. When Jean took over the family’s 5.5-hectare estate in the early 1980s, his first move was to leave the coop in Charnay and set about making his own wines. He replanted his vineyards to older, less-productive Chardonnay clones from Pouilly-Fuissé and trellised them in the fashion of the Côte d’Or rather than employing the larger-yielding, long-cane trellising prevalent in the region. He ditched the tractor and the chemicals and began picking by hand, building a small winery with an eye to creating small amounts of artisanal wines. He’s been a lightning rod as the Mâcon’s worldwide reputation has improved. A Manciat wine will always be top-notch, stylish, savory and delicious!
 
While Jean still ferments and ages several cuvées in wood, for his favorite wines, like the ultra-small Franclieu cuvée culled from the oldest vines grown on clay-limestone slope, see only steel—the better, he says, to preserve their freshness, fruit and character. But, even for a completely steel-aged wine, there is plenty of richness and texture here, a far cry from the lean-mean Mâcons of yore, but not a zaftig Meursault wannabe either: a delectable white with an excellent palate weight, perfect balance and that lovely siphoned-through-stone mineral finish.
 
And at $25?? This might be our white Burgundy of the year so far.