When it comes to American Cabernet Franc, there are two distinct camps. One looks at it like Cabernet Sauvignon and aims for riper, silkier, more powerful wines that show a lot of texture, polish and class. Crocker & Starr, Kenzo and Dalle Valle are a few producers that come to mind as doing great in that milieu. There are far fewer producers that follow a second school of thought: to make American Cabernet Franc that more approximates the so-called Bistro style so prevalent in the Loire Valley appellations of Chinon and Bourgueil in France, lighter, less extractive and more fragrant versions of the grape that take advantage of its natural tendency toward making earthy, peppery wines that float across the palate rather than attack it.
The torch-bearer for that style is Lang & Reed. Inspired by a trip to the Loire, owners John and Tracey Skupny—already favoring wines with more elegance and finesse than they encountered in their Napa Valley day jobs, conceived the idea of an affordable, eminently quaffable, thoroughly delicious Cab Franc, priced to sell. The first vintage, one we remember well at PRIMA, was 1993.
The original versions were sourced from exclusively Napa Valley fruit, but as the variety caught fire in the valley, so did its price. To keep Lang & Reed (named after their two lovely kids) true to its original mandate, recent vintages have also included grapes from Lake and Sonoma counties. Their goal remains the same: to create a food-friendly, highly nuanced Cabernet Franc that emphasizes fragrance and texture, and their current 2021 is just that.
It tastes great, pairs with all kinds of food and could serve as the poster boy for what finesse is possible when you approach Cab Franc with a lighter hand. The nose offers Kirsch that runs to black currant or blueberry, with hints of wet earth, black pepper and, particularly, chopped herbs. Mid-weight and very pretty on the palate, here is a natural partner to braised chicken or duck legs with olives, grilled flank steak with green pepper sauce or just about anything where fresh herbs, olives or other umami flavors play a large role. Delicious and always ready to drink, the Lang & Reed Cabernet Franc remains one of the really, really good deals in California Cabernet. Really … a case is not too much! – John Rittmaster, Wine Director
