One of the best producers in the fast-growing appellation of Etna is one of its oldest, Passopisciaro (pahs-so-pishi-aro), translated as ‘the ‘Fisherman’s Path.’ The property was purchased and developed by Andrea Franchetti, owner of Tuscany’s famous Tenuta di Trinoro, and originally conceived as an estate-only wine, but later, in order to add the complexity wines from a variety of altitudes, aspects and soil types can bring, came to employ some of the oldest, most established vineyards on the entire volcano. The Passopisciaro Passorosso and Passobianco (all Chardonnay) both come partially from Franchetti’s original property, but also from vaunted sites like Guardiola, Feudi di Mezzo and Malpasso. These have become two of Etna’s bellwether wines … wines critics love, sommeliers love to show off and wine lovers love to open to show just how exciting Etna has become. The new vintages of both are absolutely delicious—wines of intensity, class and a ton of personality. 

The Passobianco is savory, minty, salty and its hit of finishing mineral is simply wonderful! 

James Suckling, 95 points: Very sophisticated and complex on the nose with lemons, apples and honeysuckle. Medium-bodied with a tight palate and a smoky, flinty and volcanic finish.

Jeb Dunnuck, 92 points: A bright yellow straw color, the 2023 Passobianco is Chardonnay from two Contrade, Guardiola and Montedolce. It reveals a refreshing bouquet with notes of fresh pear, dewy fennel, wet stones, and fresh flowers. Medium to full-bodied, it boasts density with an appealing stony texture, fantastic, refreshing lift, and notes of white peach that linger on the finish. Savory but without bitterness, it’s delightful now but has the potential to drink well another 8-10 years with no problem.