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Rémi Rollin and his son Simon run this rock-solid domaine that—when we can get them—consistently provides us with wines of finesse, character and startling purity at prices that seem rather realistic. They serve as one of the best reminders that, in the age of climate change and too little wine being chased by too many dollars, the vineyards of Pernand-Vergelesses and Savigny-lès-Beaune will represent two of Burgundy’s sweetest spots going forward. Pernand runs at an off-angle to the main swath of east-facing, contiguous hillsides that comprise the bulk of the Côte d’Or; they are wedged into a narrow crevasse formed by the hill of Corton and the primary escarpment of the Côte de Beaune, and most of the key sites here face westward or northwestward rather than due south. In the bygone days of colder temperatures, the wines from Pernand were commonly characterized as somewhat lean and rustic—its whites a bit angular, its reds more rough and ready. Now, however, in our ever-warming climate, these sorts of areas—vineyards less exposed to the sun’s full brunt and which thereby mature at a more leisurely pace—regularly produce supremely compelling Burgundies: wines of subtlety and complexity, absent the surface flash of blatant ripeness. In other words, the perfect wines for our times. And, fortunately, their prices haven’t caught up yet.

We rarely get the Rollin wines and when we do, they’re in such short supply, we never even get to promote them. These are outstanding old-school Burgundies. The Pernand is gorgeous Chardonnay: ‘Les Cloux’ is a well-situated lieu-dit on the north side of the hill of Corton on a high-altitude, particularly vertiginous section. The wine shows a lower-pitched, deep nose with limestone intensity—solid and richer and weightier on the palate as well, but the terrific natural acidity holds it together perfectly. Think of the richness and persistence of neighboring Corton-Charlemagne here at about ¼ the price. It’s really delicious!

The Grands-Liards is not your typical Savigny-lès-Beaune, lying closer to the Pernand-Vergelesses premier cru Les Fichots than it does to the main swath of Savigny proper. As such, it displays a savory limestone edge, more in line with Rollin’s trio of Pernand premier crus than to classically plumper, simpler and fruit-driven examples of Savigny. With notable depth from its old Pinot Noir vines—up to 75 years of age—it presents a firm, juicy aspect, with an attractive mentholated accent to its gleamingly pure cherry fruit. Only 20% new oak is employed. Amazing stuff! And, at a sawbuck less per bottle than Rollin’s Les Fichots, a relative bargain in top-flight red Burgundy.