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The sunstruck harvest of 2023 provided the power behind the punch of the amazingly seductive Siro Pacenti Rosso di Montalcino, long one of the category’s very best producers. Weighing in at an impressive 15.5% alcohol, this is not a wine for those who believe Rosso di Montalcino is simply Brunello in a minor key. It’s va-va-voom delicious while, at the same time, being lithe, complex and, dare I even say, elegant on the palate.

The cantina is located in the hamlet of Pelagrilli, between the Canalicchio and Montosoli zones in Montalcino’s cooler northeast quadrant; this unique spot ripens Sangiovese with both intensity and finesse, especially in warmer vintages. But the addition of grapes from Pacenti’s other two southern and central sites (the same blend as Giancarlo’s famous Vecchie Vigne Brunello, just without the ‘vecchie’) makes for a wine with considerably more oomph, and Pacenti’s small production from 15- to 25-year-old vines is considered among the best Rosso di Montalcino in the business.

The 2023 is dark and earthy with a nice slug of Sangiovese’s cherry confit and cinnamon, but also sandalwood, fennel seed, black truffle and violets. While not as racy as some other vintages, it’s an impressive wine and perfectly suited for either immediate gratification with grilled pork chops, meat-sauced pasta or, of course, a bistecca, but also for longer-term cellaring. The dirty little secret of Pacenti’s Rosso is that it will keep pace with either of his two Brunellos in the cellar, but cost you half the money.

Jeb Dunnuck, 94 points: The 2023 Rosso di Montalcino is a high-level Rosso from younger vines, with a seductive aromatic profile of sandalwood, kirsch, fresh red plum, floral perfume, and spice. The palate is medium-bodied and energetic, with bright acidity, supple tannins, and a long, expressive finish that carries a touch of warmth. Drink this over the coming 7-10 years. Drink 2026-2036.

James Suckling, 92 points: This graceful and perfumed wine shows aromas of toast, licorice, vanilla, pomegranates, violets and cinnamon. Its restrained character is improved by fruit concentration and weight, a full body, crisp acidity and well-handled, velvety tannins.