Gioacchino De Forville moved his family into the town of Barbaresco from Wallonia (in present day Belgium) in 1860, settling in a small house with a cellar just down the street from the now-deconsecrated church and just next to a far-better-known local family named Gaja. Gioacchino, like many other local farmers of the time, fell under the spell of Domizio Cavazza, a professor at the Royal Enological School in Alba who preached of a bright future growing the Nebbiolo grape on their lands and started what is now the Produttori del Barbaresco cooperativo.  De Forville planted Nebbiolo vines obtained from Cavazza on several small plots of land he purchased in what are now the Loreto, Ovello and Cavanna vineyards, as well as planting other, more local, grapes like Barbera and Moscato in small vineyards he found in Castagnole Lanze and Coazzolo near the town of Asti. Now in its fifth generation, brothers Paolo and Valter continue the family tradition of growing and producing small amounts of exquisite, very well priced wines from land whose value has only become apparent during over the past 50 years.  In addition to the several Barbarescos, a delightful Langhe Nebbiolo and a Barbera and Moscato, Paolo and Valter produce a thoroughly lovely Chardonnay from the vineyards around their farmhouse in Castagnole Lanze called Cascina Buc. Made at the winery in Barbaresco, the goal is to produce an aromatic version with lightness, freshness and verve and, in an era where bigger is considered better, they’ve impressively succeeded.  Harvested on the early side to protect its acidity, it’s fermented and cellared solely in stainless steel tanks and bottled young.  If you’ve walked the arid vineyards in Castagnole on a breezy, hot, humid summer afternoon, you’ll recognize the hints of wild fennel, briar and alder in the aromatics of this lovely, lilting example of Italian Chardonnay and appreciate the fine acidity that keeps it light and lively on the palate and making it a beautiful partner for summer backyard fare like a Caprese salad, vitello tonnato, a salumi platter or even a Vongole pasta.  And, best of all, the De Forville Chardonnay is a great partner with just a glass- all on its own.  This is one you’ll probably drink by the case.  And, next time you’re in Barbaresco, after you’ve done the obligatory pose in front of Gaja’s winery, pop in to De Forville and taste 150 years’ worth of Barbaresco history!