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Rully (roo-ee) has long been dominated by large negociants who have traditionally purchased the grapes from a score or more of small growers and truck the grapes (or finished wine) to their establishments further north. Historically, there have been only a very few pure domaines who grow and make all their own wine in Rully proper. By far, the oldest and most esteemed is the venerable Domaine de La Folie. This small, family-owned operation farms 13 hectares of vines in what are undoubtedly Rully’s best climats, including the entirety of the Premier Crus Clos St. Jacques and Clos du Chaigne, by far the two most important vineyards in the appellation.
  
It’s on the two-hectare Clos La Folie vineyard, though, where their tiny cellars are located. Sitting atop the highest slope of the entire Rully appellation, perched on the Montagne de La Folie, their postage stamp-sized hilltop vineyard, also a monopole of the family’s, makes the perfect gateway Chardonnay with which to explore this extraordinary estate. Rully Blanc has long been known for its gravitas and sense of native noble restraint, and La Folie’s very traditional approach (300 years of it!) makes their wines particularly so.
 
The 2024 La Folie comes from an excellent (but parsimonious) harvest where fruit comes front and center while maintaining that sleek, elegant, very mineral-driven white Burgundy mouthfeel and palate. Here is all the severity of a top-notch Rully Blanc covered with a lovely veneer of lemon curd-apricot fruit that, with air, reveals its deep core of freshly mined flint. It’s a stupendous wine that does excellent service with all kinds of cuisine, even oysters! Maybe a rich traditional fish pie?