This one makes me particularly sad as I have already consumed a case of this, one of our most pleasant surprises of the summer, and I don’t look forward to paying more for my favorite tipple. Vermentino in Tuscany, you ask? Why not? This grape loves the Mediterranean coast and thrives everywhere from southern France (where it’s called Ugni Blanc) all the way down to Sardinia. On the Tuscan coast, it takes on the salty, distinctly maritime personality of its neighbors just to the north in Liguria.

This ultra-small, one-wine property is named after the proprietor’s Nonna, Ernesta ‘who always pushed him to do the right thing.’ We think he made the right choice! This perennial Tre Bicchieri award winner from Gambero Rosso is the essence of Tuscany’s rocky Mediterranean seacoast crammed into a bottle! Its sweet nectarine fruit is buttressed by a background of bracing citrus, mineral and sea salt. This is just the wine to have when it’s warm outside and there’s a nice platter of sashimi, an heirloom tomato and herb salad or, as proven at my favorite seafood restaurant La Pineta, in Marina di Bibbona, a delicate fritto misto.

This is seriously habit-forming. Stock up. Please.