With a cellar in the hamlet of Annunziata, the Bovios have long farmed some of La Morra’s best vineyards for Nebbiolo including Arborina (next to Elio Altare), Rocchettevino and, perhaps best, an impressive (but small) holding in Gattera, the vineyard instantly identifiable by the hillock-topping 150-year old Lebanon pine you can see from virtually everywhere in Barolo. They grow their two Barberas right near the winery in the borgata (or hamlet) known as ciotto on a steep calcareous clay slope.
Il Ciotto is the ‘lighter’ of the two, lighter being a relative term as their ‘heavier’ one is a heavily-wooded hedonistic monster at a much different price point. Il Ciotto is no lightweight, though. It has all of the richness and texture one expects from the sun-loving Barbera grape from a great exposure with dark, dusky plum fruit that leans more to cherries than mulberries as it opens. Nicely fruity and perfectly structured, this is a guaranteed hit when the menu features tomatoey, meaty pastas, burgers off the grill or a nice platter of salumi and cheese. And it’s a pretty darned good drink all on its own too!
