We know the term ‘Pinot Grigio’ can equate ‘simple, easy-drinking white’ in many people’s minds, but in Udine (OOH-dee-neh), at Italy’s border with Slovenia, it is far more than a mass-produced, easy-drinking wine. It’s one of the varieties taken most seriously and, at the most traditional addresses, often made in what’s called the Ramato style. The name refers to the wine’s onion skin-copper color gained from leaving the pink-on-the-outside, yellow-on-the-inside grapes overnight before fermentation. It adds not only color but a layer of depth and, because the subsequent wine is aged on its lees in tank, a lovely, creamy sort of texture.

The resulting wine is fuller on the palate and rich with crusty bread, vanilla, tropical fruits and a faintly smoky toastiness. Minerally and vibrant, it’s a perfect match with richer fare like the baked Montasio cheese dish called frico on every menu here, but it would go with just about anything including, as we’ve proved many times, nothing at all!
 
The Zamò family have been making wine here since 1924 and their Pinot Grigio is truly one of the region’s touchstones of the region. This is a rare and exciting treat.