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When Orin Swift releases a wine called Advice From John, with the particularly warm, sunlit optimism of the phrase “You had me at HELL NO” printed on the bottle, we are, of course, going to take it very personally. Would our John approve of the label? We suspect he’d deny so at first. Then he would probably read it again, smirk despite himself, and admit the wine is delicious. (If none of us have jobs after this, you’ll know why!) The name and label are very Orin Swift—irreverent, cheeky, a little dive-bar philosophical—but the wine itself is more serious than the joke.

This possesses all the character we look for in a generous California red: plush, dark-fruited, polished, and immediately charming, free-flowing with ripe blackberry, black plum, warm spices, and a little violet lift, all tidily wrapped in that silken texture that makes Merlot easy to love—when it’s done well. Petite Sirah, Syrah, and Grenache add extra depth and color, while French oak lends classically rich notes of espresso, cocoa, and fragrant vanilla.

This is not trying to be a stern, intellectual, old-school Merlot that requires a decanter and varying opinions about Pomerol. It is trying to be delicious, and it succeeds.

Drink it with grilled steak, braised short ribs, lamb burgers, roast chicken, mushrooms, aged cheddar, and any other hearty fare your heart desires.

Best enjoyed before John starts asking sensible questions.