One of the best producers in this fast-growing appellation is one of its oldest, Passopisciaro (pahs-so-pishi-aro), translated as ‘the ‘Fisherman’s Path.’ The property was purchased and developed by Andrea Franchetti, owner of Tuscany’s famous Tenuta di Trinoro, and originally conceived as an estate-only wine, but later, in order to add the complexity wines from a variety of altitudes, aspects and soil types can bring, came to employ some of the oldest, most established vineyards on the entire volcano. The Passopisciaro Passorosso and Passobianco (all Chardonnay) both come partially from Franchetti’s original property, but also from vaunted sites like Guardiola, Feudi di Mezzo and Malpasso. These have become two of Etna’s bellwether wines … wines critics love, sommeliers love to show off and wine lovers love to open to show just how exciting Etna has become. The new vintages of both are absolutely delicious—wines of intensity, class and a ton of personality.

Passorosso’s textbook aromas are a seductive blend of savory and sweet, and its fine acidity and round tannins will take you briefly to Burgundy before reminding you that this wonderful Nerello Mascalese was grown in the lava of a very active Italian volcano! Delicious. (I am already planning on making my spicy, tomato-y braised pork ribs for the first bottle I open, which will be pretty soon, too!)