Eduardo is originally from the Canary Islands of Spain but came to Sicily in 2012 to pursue his passion for wine. He moved to Vittoria where he interned for Arianna Occhipinti, not a bad way to get your foot in the door! After a few seasons there, he earned the job of enologist at the aforementioned Passopisciaro on Etna. Deciding soon after to start his own project, this Spanish outsider used his considerable charm to sweet talk several local farmers into renting him vines and, for his first few vintages, trucked his grapes all the way back to Occhipinti to make the wine. Since the grapes were harvested off Etna but made in Vittoria, they had to be labeled Terre Siciliane (Sicilian wine) rather than Etna Rosso and Bianco and, even after converting a garage into a winery on Etna where he now works, his production remains labeled as such.
That technicality notwithstanding, Acosta’s wines are Etna through and through. Each cuvée he makes is named for the side of the mountain from whence the grapes are farmed. Versante Nord, means, of course, ‘North Side’ and the six contrade he works with—Pietramarina, Allegracore, Sciaranuova, Friera, Santo Spirito and Marches—are all on the north side of Etna and vary in exposure and range in altitude from 550 to 850 meters. The vines, mostly bush-trained Nerello Mascalese, average over 50 years in age and are organically farmed. Taking a page from his mentor Occhipinti, Acosta’s approach in the cellar is very traditional and hands-on. The grapes are vinified as a mix of whole clusters and destemmed berries, cofermented spontaneously with native yeasts and without sulfur or temperature control in concrete tanks. Maceration is around 15 days and aging around 16 months in concrete rather than wood. The wine is bottled without fining or filtration and with a tiny amount of sulfur.
The resulting wine is absolutely scintillating! Etna Rosso is often called the Burgundy of Italy because it can match Pinot Noir’s penchant for elegant refinement, aromatic complexity and even longevity. There is more than a passing resemblance to Pinot in this wine but it’s still uniquely Etna. Berries lead to cherries that lead to clove-y spice that lead to wild herb on a mid-weight, ultra-drinkable, lip-smacking palate that’s both delicious on its own or great with spicy pasta dishes, tomatoey stews or even grilled fish. Drink now!
