2022 Tenuta di Carleone-Il Guercio ‘Il Randagio’ IGT Toscana Rosso

$34.99 with shipping included on 6 bottles or more

Here’s the thing. Tenuta Carleone’s Sean O’Callaghan is a confirmed and vociferous advocate for Tuscany’s Sangiovese grape and has created an amazing, envious reputation for himself going against the grain by bottling ultra-elegant, ultra-stylish wines of solo Sangio, not only at Carleone, but before that at the seminal Riecine property in Chianti. No back blending with international varieties like Cab, Syrah or Merlot. No adding texture with gobs of new barrique or other tricks of the trade. No nuthin‘ that stinks of modern or commercial. Just elemental Sangiovese at its purest and best. Yet here I am trying to sell you on a Sean O’Callaghan wine created without as much as a drop of Sangiovese in it. A wine made with, gasp, Cabernet Franc and Merlot! What gives? Is the irreverent One-Eyed Rascal having one off on us? Pshaw! This is hardly Il Guercio’s first dalliance with these varieties. I remember drinking with him an absolutely fabulous Riecine wine based on Merlot he made over 30 years ago, so I know he’s no stranger to using these kinds of grapes. But what is unique and fun about Sean’s return to the dark side is the fact that this lovely red remains, above all else, a Sean wine. And that means, always, a light hand, uncommon freshness and really pure, elegant flavors. In fact, some might call Il Randagio, literally ‘Stay Dog’ (get it?), the ‘anti-Super Tuscan.’ Organically and biodynamically farmed like the Sangiovese he turns into his iconic Chianti, Il Guercio and Uno, Sean keeps each parcel he harvests separate and ferments and about 40% of the must as whole grape clusters that he treads by foot. The wine sees no wood at all, rather it’s aged only in concrete tanks. He bases the blend primarily on Franc with only about 10% Merlot added to bring a bit of roundness to what’s really an aromatic, crunchy, fruit-forward red. Yeah, to me, Sean’s foray into the international varieties reminds me more of a ‘Super Chinon’ than anything else- and that’s a wonderful thing as I count Chinon as among my favorite French reds of all! Twist the top off a bottle of Il Randagio with a meatloaf, some spaghetti and meatballs, a platterful of cured meats and cheeses, a grilled pork chop or, well, with nothing at all. And if you accidentally serve it at cellar temperature or even a bit cooler, that wouldn’t be a crime either. The one-eyed stray dog on the label is there to remind us that ol’ Il Guercio never takes life too seriously and neither should you. If you want to continue to enjoy your Solaia, Sassicaia and Ornellaia, please do, but make room for their mirror image, something that reminds you that wine is made from grapes and should taste that way! Very highly recommended.

Vinous: The 2022 Il Randagio, a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, is fabulous. Bright acids and floral overtones grace this exquisite, nuanced red. The a good bit of whole clusters (40-50%), but stems aren’t especially evident. The 2022 spent four months on the skins in cement and open top tanks. More than anything else, it’s the freshness and purity here that stands out. What a gorgeous wine this is! 93 points