Follow Fontina cheese to its home in the Aosta Valley between Piemonte, Italy, and the French border, literally 15 minutes’ drive to Mont Blanc. Morgex et La Salle is one of the smallest appellations in Europe and has been planted to the indigenous Prié Blanc grape since before Hanibal marched his elephants past these incredible vineyards on his way to sack Rome. Most of the growers in these two villages have their wines made at the Cave de Mont Blanc, the small cooperativo in the shadow of the mountain itself. God’s country! Prié can make a wine rich with fruit but the cold alpine temperatures, diurnal swings and the high altitude here (1200 meters) ensure plenty of natural acidity too, plenty enough to cut through that gorgeous, gooey fondue of glorious Fontina cheese.

Fermented in a combination of wood casks and stainless steel tanks, the secondary fermentation is in the bottle where it sits on its lees for 18 months, like a fine bottle of Champagne (a.k.a. Metodo Classico). But, you have to imagine Champagne if it were grown at the top of the world in some of the most amazing air you’ve ever breathed to get a sense of the freshness and persistence of these bubbles! Think cheeses here: fondues, cheese sauces, risottos with cheese—you get the picture. Extraordinary bubbles!

Staff Reviews:

John Rittmaster, Wine Director: Loved this wine! Of all the wines in the tasting, this one most reminded me of its origins, high in the alpine foothills between Italy and France. Very dry, waxy and compact, this was redolent of Asian pear, wild bracken and smoky mineral. With a rich cheese like the local Fontina, it would be sublime. ***+

Frank Rothstein, Minister of Value: Wonderful minerality in the bouquet, finishing with hints of fresh fruit and spring flowers. Really well-made bubbles and a hoot to quaff back. ***