The name says it all. The traditional name of this seminal Barolo producer is Vigna Rionda S.S. di Massolino Fratelli of Serralunga, familiarly now called, simply, Massolino. The name is a tribute to the vineyard holding for which the Massolino family are most proud, the MGA now called Vignarionda. The Massolinos have been farming Vignarionda and a host of other top Serralunga addresses since 1896. And like many other families who, basically, were ‘schiavenza’ sharecroppers, it was only after they were allowed to purchase the land in the 1930s and saw a market for their own bottled wine in 1947 that they got into the winemaking business.

But it’s not only about Vignarionda at Massolino. The vineyards they farm read like a who’s-who of Serralunga’s best sites including Margheria (the next hill to Vignarionda’s) and Parafada (adjoining Lazzarito; see above). They also farm a parcel in the MGA Parussi, a vineyard technically in Castiglione Falletto, the next village. Since around 5% of the Massolino’s blended Barolo comes from that site, the family labels the wine simply Barolo DOCG instead of Barolo del Comune di Serralunga d’Alba, a distinction that is more technical than practical as Parussi shares a lot of the same attributes as its Serralunga brethren. And, in fact, even though the label says Barolo DOCG, it’s more Serralunga than a lot of wines wearing that name. The sparse soils of these hills keep the Nebbiolo’s acidity high and its pH low. It shows in the wine’s appearance, a ruddier red with orange highlights as opposed to, say, La Morra’s normally darker hues. The aromatics are also pure Serralunga and based on mineral and mint tones with warm camphor, rusty iron and faded rose. Ah, everything we love in Barolo! Medium-weight with some nice heft in the midpalate, it’s quite a savory wine whose youthful tannins promise a long life ahead of it.

While we sure wish we could afford to have Massolino’s Vignarionda Riserva in the Super Consorzio, there’s a lot of its DNA in this absolutely gorgeous, take-me-now bottle of the wine that first brought Massolino to the dance back in 1947.

Wine Spectator, 94 points: A beam of pure cherry permeates this juicy red. Supporting flavors of strawberry, rose, graphite and eucalyptus add depth, while vibrant acidity focuses the flavors and drives them through the lingering finish. A great example of the modern style of Barolo. Best from 2028 through 2045.
 
Kerin O'Keefe, 93 points: The 2021 Barolo from Massolino is a lovely wine. It opens with heady aromas of dog rose, wild red berry and whiffs of botanical herb and new leather. On the elegant, savory palate, taut, fine-grained tannins accompany ripe Morello cherry, star anise and orange peel that give it a tangy finish.
 
Vinous, 92 points: The 2021 Barolo is a fabulous wine that shows both the quality of the year and the very high standards at Massolino. Pliant and expressive, with notable depth, the Barolo is super-impressive. Macerated dark cherry, spice, lavender, menthol and blood orange all build in the glass. What a gorgeous and complete wine this is. The straight Barolo is, without question, the hidden gem in this range.