We first met Alan Manley in, of all places, the Bartolo Mascarello cellar in the town of Barolo. It was Alan who showed us around this cathedral of traditional Barolo winemaking until Maria-Theresa could free herself up for our appointment. Turns out this American interloper is Maria-Theresa’s right hand man, helping her, not only in the cellar, but also doing the multitude of other tasks that keep this iconic cellar going. Before that, he told us, he had worked with Silvia and Elio at Altare, Alfio Cavallotto and with the late Luciano Sandrone, who first took Alan under his wing and taught him the art of winemaking. Well enough, I guess, so that Alan felt emboldened to make some of his own from a small parcel of rented vines in the Pernanno vineyard in Castiglione Falletto. One thing led to another, and with the support of Maria-Theresa and another friend with some moo-lah, Manley slowly developed his own project, Margherita Otto, the first names of his grandparents. With Mascarello and other traditionalists as role models, Margherita Otto (a.k.a. M8- get it?) has become a force to be reckoned with. In addition to a very fine Barolo, using fruit from a vineyard at the base of Vignarionda in Serralunga d’Alba, a half-hectare on the fringe of the Ginestra MGA in Monforte d’Alba and fruit from the Costa di Rose and Vignane MGAs in Barolo, Alan made his first Langhe Nebbiolo in 2020 and, we think, he has truly hit his stride with his 2022. He makes the wine in the most traditional way possible with long periods of skin contact and aging in large botti grande casks. It is, indeed, the M8 Barolo in a minor key with an emphasis on aromatics and early accessibility. We loved the wonderful ‘tar and roses’ nose lifted from a base of warm, dark cherry confit and cinnamon spice. Its appealing ‘cracked earth,’ faded rose and wild herb notes lead to a medium- to full-bodied Nebbiolo with significant gravitas. We think it’s one of the best additions we’ve tasted in this crowded category in several years. I sure don’t begrudge Alan the price. It seems more than fair. 

By the way, in addition to the Langhe Nebbiolo and Barolo, Alan makes a very tiny amount of outrageously good Barolo Chinato. It’s a staple of Casa Rittmaster for both an apero with a bit of soda and lime or after dinner as the perfect digestive. We have a few on hand if you’re ready to try one of the most unique elixirs made anywhere!