50% 2013 and 25% each ’12-’11, deg 6/2015; dosage made, as for all of Laurent’s wines, from still wines of the two best cuvées, Grand Cellier d’Or and Coeur de Cuvée, done in wood. In the first 1-2 years after disgorgement this wine shows a spiky kind of flavor geometry.  It bears mentioning that many tasters find this wine hugely impressive and high-impact. -Terry Theise

The Vilmart NV Brut Grand Cellier is 70-30 Chardonnay-Pinot and based on vintage 2010, with its two immediate predecessors in supporting roles. It comes from two parcels in Rilly and was aged for 10 months in foudre before going to bottle for 16 months of secondary fermentation and maturation. Fresh apple is tinged with mint and tarragon on a polished palate, picking up subtle chalkiness and saliva-liberating salinity en route to a long juicy finish. This harbors ten grams of residual sugar, but you don’t notice it as such. There is an interactivity of toasty, chalky, and smoky elements with the fruit and herbs that goes beyond that exhibited in the Grande Reserve, though the latter displays more sheer energy, succulence, refreshment and length

Laurent Champs crafts impeccable, elegant Champagnes of the highest level. The Vilmart Champagnes are so delicious when they are released I doubt too many are purchased for cellaring, but the reality is that the wines also age exceptionally well.