As every lover of the crisp, mineral driven Sauvignons of the Loire Valley already all-too-well knows, the 2020 and, especially, the 2021 harvests were nearly decimated by nature’s

vagaries. Frost, in particular, claimed over half of the harvest in Sancerre in 2021 creating a shortage that has had importers acting like seventeenth-century Dutch tulip traders trying to obtain enough stock to satisfy a thirsty world. Prices went berserk, of course, and even large-production cooperative wines, so long as they could be labeled ‘Sancerre,’ have more than doubled in price in some cases. The odd thing about this insanity is that it has been largely limited to the Sancerre side of the Loire. The other side, the Pouilly-sur-Loire side, though much smaller in terms of overall production, was spared some of the heartbreak of the bad harvests and has remained largely under the radar of all of the speculation. I guess that explains why we were able to obtain a decent allocation of the single-vineyard Pouilly-Fumes from the famed Masson-Blondelet domaine at such good prices. I say let ‘em fight over the Sancerre, and let’s toast to the same quality of diamond cut, mineral-driven Sauvignon from the region’s best-loved producer (not named Didier Dagueneau) at much more competitive prices! Never heard of Masson-Blondelet? You’re excused. They’re small, and most of their miniscule production is sucked up by top Michelin restaurants throughout France and the rest of northern Europe. It’s sort of a tough find here in the states. These are classic P-Fs, though- delicious and nuanced expressions of Loire Sauvignon Blanc. Les Pierres de Pierre is a two-hectare vineyard site consisting of old vines (25 and 55 years old) on flint soil with a south-southwest exposure while D’Or et Diamant is sort of a reserve cuvee that comes from the best clusters culled from throughout the estate and is consistently one of the top examples of Sauvignon Blanc made in Pouilly-Fume. The former cuvee is more driven by its pear and lemon-lime-tinged fruit and is delightfully steely and dry while the D’Or e Diamant is more introverted now and buttressed by a larger armature. Perhaps it will be at its best in two or three years but, damn, it sure drinks well now! Drink ‘Pierre’ with herby salads, baked goat cheese, simple preparations and, of course, oysters, while you can reserve the D’Or for richer fish dishes, scallops, herby roasted or grilled quails or chicken or even a not-too-hot Thai green curry. A great case might be 6 of each, some for now and some for later. What do you think?