2022 Domaine Frantz Chagnoleau Macon-Villages ‘Clos Saint-Pancras’


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We hadn’t heard of this very small property either until we were presented the wine this morning. New to us or not, what was in the bottle really impressed even the most hard-boiled of this lot of truly spoiled wine merchants! Coming from a high altitude, very windy spot near Vire (and, by extension, one of the highest spots in the entire Maconnaise), this perfectly exposed, organically farmed Chardonnay comes from a rocky site near a limestone quarry. Winemaker Frantz Chagnoleau, who also makes the wines at Heretiers Comtes Lafon, takes a purist approach to this, farming organically and tending the vineyard by horse and plough. Her ferments the fruit on indigenous yeasts, aging it in used wood and, in short, doing everything else necessary to create classically styled, steely, mineral-rich Chardonnay with amazing punch and deep, deep flavor. One of the best whites we’ve tasted all year from Burgundy, we just loved the lemony freshness and pure minerality of the wine and loved the price too. In fact, I am pretty sure that the first few cases we get tomorrow are going right home into our own fridges- even Frank’s! Drink it now for its effortless sort of elegance, or hold, if you like, for another five or six years. Can’t go wrong here, white Burgundy lovers! Very highly recommended.